Several tour members had quietly reported experiencing stomach problems throughout the trip, which made the mangled English on the Ephesus guide map all the more amusing: Plan of the Runs.

Some time after we arrived in Ephesus, the cruise ship crowds began filling up the place. Now we knew why Sidar and Taylan had woken us up so early.

At every restroom stop so far, Sidar had curiously told us, "It's fifty cents... which I think is enough to feel the magic atmosphere," and grinned. Only now in Ephesus at its exit WC did I finally get the joke.

By now my shoes were covered with rubble of centuries-old city ruins, the tread of my soles worn smooth by two weeks of exploring.

A farewell sunset dinner, an evening stroll for ice cream with the group, and I went to sleep, dreaming of belly dancers, Turkish laughter and my own bed—6,000 miles away.

<< Back26 >>