"I have nothing on Earth except five olive trees," Sidar would later tell me, his blue eyes narrowing with laughter.

But, as Angie and I had only just arrived in Istanbul, we hadn't met him yet.

Apricot Hotel owner Mehmet was a welcome sight after a full day of travel from the United States.

"Merhaba!" (mer-HA-ba, Hello!) he said, pouring us two glasses of fresh lemonade. Our two-week Turkey trip had begun, and I soon discovered Turks were friendly beyond compare.

A bright afternoon walk on the Galata Bridge helped ease my jetlag. The calm waters of the Golden Horn stretched northwest out of sight. Asia was visible far to the east.

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